Life in the Ghetto

So, as I said, we left camping Roma the morning of the 17th for Frank and Silvia's place in the old Jewish Ghetto. Walking into the Piazza Della Cinque Scuole I could not have been happier to see their huge green medieval-looking front door. Passing through the portal into the cool inner stairway Nina and I both let out sighs of appreciation. Frank and Silvia live in the most beautiful apartment imaginable on the top floor, which is accessed by climbing up three floors of wide winding marble stairs.

After Frank let us in, we put our stuff down in our room, grabbed a key and headed out to explore the Rome we know and love. I suppose for some Rome is an abrasive city; it is loud, fast moving, and expensive. It is also a literal palimpsest of history - a city that manages to live in both the past and the present in one breath. Depending on what you have come to find, Rome is a very different city for different people. Our first day Nina and I got a taste of Baroque Rome more than anything else.

I admit it is easy to find Rome too much if you get bogged down in the Baroque. Baroque art and architecture can quite literally take your breath away, often accompanied with a wince. It has the grace of large elephant navigating a gondola through the canals of Venice. We are talking about bigger is better taken to the enth degree. GOLD, COLOURED MARBLE, CHERUBS, CHAOTIC SCENES OF THE HEAVENS PAINTED ON THE CEILINGS ALL TOPPED OFF BY SEVERAL DOMES. At its best it is very impressive, or taken too far, totally ridiculous (see St. Peter's).

Nina indulged me in about four, or five churches so that I could see some Caravaggios, and then we traipsed off to a part of town known for vintage shopping and I bought an overpriced, but beautiful bag. It is a dark red, purply snake skin bag with a gold chain strap, and gold handles so that I can wear it either over the shoulder or carry it. Silvia was very impressed by it, and she has great taste, so I felt I had made a good purchase.

we fell asleep that night in our own bed, wine soaked and overfed. It was simply wonderful.