Antwerp: hereafter known as "the stopover on the way to Amsterdam"

Antwerp = the newfound knowledge that when a guidebook describes a hostel as "well worn" it really means it, long and misdirected rides on what look like trams imported from Soviet Russia, fries with generous helpings of mayonnaise, really cheap Internet with really f'd up keyboards, and lastly, wonderful, beautiful, breathtaking art (check out Quentin Massijs!).