Getting into the Groove

The more I continue to travel, the more I notice how important it is to get into the rhythm of each city I visit. This can manifest itself in a variety of ways. Most pressing, in my mind, is to get an accurate picture of what it means to be a pedestrian in that given place.

In Naples no one adheres to any signage, so crossing streets requires a mixture of a determined "stare the driver down" mentality, and a healthy dose of common sense/intuition/nimble foot work when it looks unlikely that the driver(s) would have any qualms about running you over. In Belgium life moves at a slower place. There people adhere to the laws of traffic to an almost unnatural degree, whereby people will stand at a cross walk for LONG periods of time with ample safe crossing opportunities, and not even consider taking advantage. Frustrated with this abrasive change from the "devil may care" attitude in Naples to "slow and steady wins the race", Nina and I would often cross illegally yelling "NAPOLI STYLE" loudly as we did so.

Here in Amsterdam Nina and I experienced something more akin to Naples, but with a new opponent: the cyclist. Before crossing any street in Amsterdam it is essential to look all fours ways (especially behind you). Bicycles are the most popular mode of transport here, and you see all ages zipping past you at top speed. Whereas in Naples there are traffic lights even if no one cares to look at them, here they have recognised the same total lack of regard for road signage and done away with it all together. My first day I stepped out in front of a cyclist, who did in fact break for me, but in doing so caused a three bike pile-up behind him. Shaun later observed that the only reason he had stopped was probably because he was also a tourist.

Another important rhythm to pick up is food culture. In Italy, for example, there are very strict rules about coffee drinking, which I always forget, or flagrantly disregard. For example, it is a huge faux pas to have more than one cappuccino in a sitting - a crime I have committed countless times. Also people eat quite late, and if you do gauchely decide to wander out in search of food before 7 - you'll find most places closed. Here in the Netherlands, as in Belgium, people start their meals earlier, but enjoy them over a long period.

Local delicacies range from place to place. Nina and I accidentally sampled something called an "American Sandwich", which we thought was sun dried tomato paste and mozzarella on first inspection. Upon taking a bite, we found the cheese was actually egg and the paste totally unidentifiable, but tasty. Shaun later informed us that it was a popular sauce made with pureed raw meat.

Our most humorous faux pas, however, was committed at a pancake house on Nina's last morning. Pancakes here are basically crepes, light with sweet or savory toppings . On the front of the menu was a delicious looking picture of a chocolate, banana, and whipped cream pancake that caught Nina's eye immediately. When our slightly dilapidated looking, elderly waitress/the owner? came over to take our orders she received Nina's with a loud series of snorts and a lot of eyebrow raising. Nina became self-conscious and asked if there was anything wrong with her choice. We got a mumbled answer about it being early in the day for something that sweet. Tempting fate I decided to order the same. This was taken down onto her pad with more snorting, and concerned looks for my sanity. Shaun, really getting into the spirit of the moment, ordered the same, and adding insult to injury, added a hot chocolate with whipped cream. At this point the snorting had become positively uproarious, and she walked away from us shaking her head and mumbling something about tourists under her breath. We couldn't help it; we bust into laughter. Luckily she was good natured about the whole thing in the end, and we left her with smiles all 'round.